Masters of Their Draft

The month it took to brew the beer about to be chugged is probably not one of these things.

"On the surface, (brewing beer is) a really simple process," said John Withey, brewmaster at Top of the Hill. "But in reality there are a lot of complicated things going into the process, into the beer."

Top of the Hill and Carolina Brewery, both on Franklin Street, are the only two microbreweries in the Chapel Hill area.

Withey came from England, where he studied biochemistry, to join the brewing team at Top of the Hill."Historically, there were brewmasters in every town in England, and the head brewer had the same status and salary as a doctor," he said. "Things are a little different now."

Though times have changed, good brewers are still in high demand, said Jon Connolly, brewmaster at Carolina Brewery.

"We go through the brewing process more than 100 times a year, and it's a very complicated process," Connolly said.

For each brew, the brewmaster must find the perfect flavor mix of malted barley and hops.

"For a dark beer, we use roasted malts, and for a beer with sweet flavor we use caramel malts and special hops," Connolly said. "This formula is what gives the beer its characteristic flavor."

And variety, he said, is the name of the game.

"We like to keep a good variety of beer -- light, dark, seasonal -- so that there is something for everyone to drink."

Seasonal beer at the Carolina Brewery includes Oktoberfest, a brew inspired by the German festival of the same name.

"For this beer we use hops imported from Germany and toasted malts to give it the authentic German flavor," Connolly said.

The brewing process, done completely on-site at both of these local establishments, takes about one month. The temperature used in the fermentation process is another determinant of the beer's flavor, Connolly said.

"Dark beer, like lager, ferments at a much cooler temperature than ale, giving the beer a more robust and less fruity flavor," he explained.

The right ingredients, temperature and amount of time all add up to make the beer many patrons know and love.

And both Top of the Hill and Carolina Brewery have been repeatedly recognized over the years by the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago for the quality of their beers.

According to the institute's records, Top of the Hill has received many awards for many of its brews, including their popular Carolina Crystal Wheat.

Connolly said Carolina Brewery's Copperline Amber Ale has won the gold medal in its category several times and competed with hundreds of beers in its class from all over the world. "They taste the beer in specific groups and rate each based on standards," Connolly said. "It's really nice to be recognized."

And students said the microbrew, though often pricier than standard domestics, can be worth the extra cash.

"It's just a better beer, and drinking it is almost a novelty," said Mary Tiffany, a senior from Iowa and an employee of the Carolina Brewery.

Senior Andrew Osterday stood at the bar at Top of the Hill licking foam off his lip."Oh yeah -- you can tell a lot went into making this," he said.

The brewmasters said though theirs is a behind-the-scenes role, the community truly appreciates their profession.

"I don't get paid like a doctor, but people seem to like the beer I make," Withey said.

"I'd sure like to thank these guys," Osterday concluded, eyeing his pint glass. "This is some good beer."

The Features Editor can be reached at features@unc.edu.