For EmJ Jakubowics, the cheese specialist at the Carrborro grocery co-op Weaver Street Market, cheese is both an art and a lifestyle: a combination of creativity and honed craft, where they look for unique and well-made cheeses, all cut and curated for the local community.
Jakubowics' cheese career first began while living in Chicago in their mid-twenties, when they started a job at Whole Foods Market's One Chicago location. While working at Whole Foods, they decided to take the test for the American Cheese Society to become a certified cheese professional.
After passing, Jakubowics began to work with farmers, cheese producers and cheese makers. They have worked in the industry for the past nine years, starting as Weaver Street's cheese specialist in 2019.
Jakubowics said that to select cheeses, they pick customers' brains for their preferences, including what foods they are pairing the cheeses with.
“It's really just about what [cheese] you like fitting your food,” they said. “I just think that you shouldn't prevent yourself from trying new things.”
As a cheese specialist, Jakubowics knows all of the ins and outs of the process of cheesemaking, and what goes on behind the scenes. There are many nuances to what creates a good cheese, starting with how cows are treated and fed. The type of grass a cow consumes, for example, changes the color of their milk and thus the cheese.
Jakubowics said that their favorite parts of the job are the process of cutting cheese, testing out new cheeses and hearing opinions from customers and coworkers as well as doing inventory.
“I really like giving customers new things, a new experience and getting them to try something that maybe they wouldn't have normally,” they said.