Before I had even applied to UNC, I heard of Lantern.
After scrolling through food blogs and watching hours of Food Network at home I stumbled upon it. It was only a slight piquing of my interest, mostly because I noticed it was in N.C., but a shift was happening. Destiny was intervening.
Melodrama aside, as I became set on coming to school at Chapel Hill I started to look into the noted “foodie” culture of the area. Lantern was an integral part of this exploration. It is a center of the food world in the area, even named by Gourmet to be the one of the best places to eat in the country.
Soon it was set in my mind — when I set off for UNC, I would be going to Lantern. It was inevitable.
Things got in the way though. I had papers. I couldn’t find an occasion to justify heading to the restaurant. I couldn’t find people to go with. Buns was open.
The menu was a tad beyond a college budget. It was way down Franklin. Buns was still open.
Lo and behold, I remained a Lantern virgin at the start of this month. Despite my poor fortune, however, I rejoiced in knowing that would soon change.
My fellow foodie grandparents, who frequently travel the world to try different cuisines, came to town this weekend. My grandpa in particular was hooked by my description of Lantern, and upon his arrival it was immediately decided that Lantern would be at the front of our dinner itinerary. On Friday, after spending an afternoon at a favorite hangout of mine, Caffe Driade, we made the trip. It was finally happening. I was crossing the threshold.
My grandparents have been to Paris, they have been to Rome, and they have been to Tokyo. They’ve eaten at Michelin-starred and world-renowned restaurants. They’re by no means snobs, but it definitely means something when they say that a meal is great.
That night at Lantern they said they had second greatest meal of their life. It was spectacular.
We started with the salt and pepper shrimp, one of Lantern’s most hailed dishes, and it went above and beyond expectations. My grandpa devoured his plate and most of my grandmother’s as well, while I slowly savored the perfectly cooked shrimp. The crust was a well-played crunchy counterpoint to the succulent shrimp, which were beautifully accented by an accompaniment of fried jalapeños and fried cilantro. Eaten all together, they provided a delicious symphony of sweet, salty, spicy, and citrus that absolutely floored my taste buds. They were undoubtedly the greatest shrimp I have ever eaten.
The next dish, a savory oxtail dumpling soup, continued the ethereal meal. The broth, a light beef one with notes of scallion and ginger, was a genius concoction, used wisely to suit the rich dumplings. I made no qualms with drinking the remnants from the bowl as other diners looked on.
The denouement of a charcuterie plate and trout tar tare was both visually appealing and tasty, but it was the dessert that really solidified the exemplary status of the meal. My grandparents and I unashamedly ordered four of Lantern’s five desserts. Every one was spectacular.
The molten chocolate cake with its flowing, decadent center was divine. The chestnut custard with espresso caramel exceeded my taste buds’ comprehension. A spiced chocolate pudding elegantly juxtaposed ginger and eastern exotic flavors with a rich, mousse-like chocolate setting. And, finally, a coconut and hibiscus cake
with rose syrup absolutely shocked everyone at our table as a floral and bright-tasting confectionary paragon.
It was the grand finale of the fireworks show. The masterpiece was complete; the meal was done. I left the restaurant a very full and content man. I accomplished my mission.
My verdict: Lantern lives up to the praise. If you get the chance, try it yourself. It was one of the greatest meals I’ve ever eaten, and it is just one more reason to be proud to live in Chapel Hill. Hopefully, I’ll be there again to run into you. Enjoy.
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